Party Pieces And Festive Spirits

For long-term sufferers of CADDAD (Christmas Affected Doom, Depression And Despondency), the solution is a well-stocked drinks cabinet

- Jonathan Ray

Oh good grief, it’s that time of year again. Bloomin’ Christmas! I swear it gets earlier every year. There were mince pies and Christmas pudding in my local supermarket on 31 August. Just saying. It’s enough to drive one straight to the bottle. Talking of which…

Do get some fine but simple fizz in. It needn’t be – shouldn’t be – expensive, just drinkable. And I’m afraid that splashing your hard-earned do-re-mi on BOGOF supermarket champagne is a false economy: decent, well-priced sparkling wine (and I don’t mean crappy cava) is better than cheap champagne.

The Graham Beck Brut NV (£12, Majestic), for example, is ridiculously tasty. From South Africa, it’s an absolute belter, created by the legendary Pieter ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira. Crisp, clean, fresh and slightly toasty, it’s way, way better than many thrice-the-price champagnes. For a few quid more, there’s the exemplary Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut NV (£16, Private Cellar), a strikingly fine sparkler from Saumur. Blended from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, it’s as fine a non-champagne French fizz as you’ll find. And given that it’s owned by Bollinger you still get a touch of Champenois stardust.

ENGLISH FIZZ

English fizz is something to be loved and admired and there’s none I love and admire more than the Ambriel English Reserve Demi-Sec NV (£33, Corney & Barrow) from West Sussex. Made deliberately off-dry, it makes a perfect mid-morning reviver and is as spot-on with rich starters as it is with strong cheeses or creamy puddings.