Breaking Bad

Shruti Shende talks to designers who have not only dared to, but also succeeded in challenging and changing conventional fashion and beauty norms.

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In 2001, when the fashion world was still in awe of waif-like models sashaying down ramps, avant-garde designer Alexander McQueen chose to deviate from the path. During the finale of his independent Spring/Summer show, Voss, he displayed a glass box at the centre of a room, which broke open to reveal a full-figured nude model sitting on a chair with her face covered with a mask, breathing through tubes attached to her mouth.

McQueen had always sought to shatter the notions of what the society termed ‘normal’, since it can be harsh on people who do not check the right boxes. “I think there is beauty in everything. What normal people perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it (sic).” These words by the late designer are relevant now more than ever as business for major conglomerates is being driven by incorporating inclusivity and equal opportunity clauses.

Closer home, designer Dhruv Kapur of label DRVV rebelled against the rules of dressing for women via his collection—Undress Code—at the Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2015. While incorporating styles like deconstruction of garments to create new fashion statements, Kapur focused on the freedom of expression through clothes.