Dionysian dreams

MY early twenties redefined ‘idle’. Of the few exertions I undertook, a couple of autumnal trips to France and Switzerland to pick grapes stand out. The long, hard days were softened somewhat by the landscape, the camaraderie and the wine and chocolate given every two hours from 7.30am.

- Mark Diacono

At the time, I had little interest in gardening and no idea that the sense of harvest celebration was not only the anticipation of wine to come, but also relief that a year of gentle interventions had been successful. Easy as they are to grow, grapes take you on a particular dance through the seasons, which makes the eating and drinking especially rewarding.

If you’re thinking of planting a grape, chances are it will appreciate the predicted hotter, longer summers, ripening more reliably and more completely. Now is the time to sit down with a glass of what you fancy and dedicate time to researching varieties: your vine may be with you for decades, so choose one you like the sound of, that suits your location and according to whether you want to eat or press the grapes. If you know someone who grows a particular variety, taste the fruit of theirs if you can.