ALONG FOR THE RIDE

On tropical Réunion, France's farthest-flung department, buttery croissants and baguettes make good fuel for conquering the rainforested interior on two wheels

- SARAH MARSHALL

Snaking into the hazy horizon, a hulking concrete-and-steel structure coils around Réunion’s north shore. Thrust skyward on enormous girders rising from this Indian Ocean island, which lies between Mauritius and Madagascar’s east coast, we’re cruising along the Nouvelle Route du Littoral — an ambitious 7.5-mile highway, built metres from the craggy coastline of steep cliffs that is ordinarily too dangerous to skirt far below.

Due to be completed by the end of this year, the new €2bn (£1.7bn) EU-supported project will link the cities of Saint-Pierre in the south and Saint-Denis in the north, via the airport and popular resort base Saint-Paul, and is estimated to be among the most expensive roads in the world.

Technically, I’m still in France. Connected to Paris by the country’s longest domestic flight, the overseas department of Réunion is a curious mix of the familiar in a setting that’s just like its tropical island neighbours. Carved by a multitude of tectonic rumblings and volcanic activity, vast craters gape across its rainforested heart. Steep slopes soar and lava fields tumble so close to the ocean that they’re sometimes kissed by the surf. Meanwhile, the island’s cafes serve crisp baguettes, buttery croissants and bottles of Bordeaux — all of which are payable in euros — and smooth, well-graded roads are signposted in French.

One popular cultural pastime Réunion didn’t naturally inherit from its French motherland, however, is cycling. But that’s all set to change now exploration on two wheels has started to take off.

“We’ve been hiring bikes and running trips for some time, but now the sport is becoming increasingly popular with travellers,” says Gildas Le Pessec of mountain biking specialists Rando Réunion Passion.