GRILL AMERICANO

Just like the '80s but so much better, writes MICHAEL HARDEN of the new steakhouse in town.

- MICHAEL HARDEN

There are few things more heartening for the regular diner than stepping into a new restaurant that perfectly understands its purpose in life. It’s like the feeling you get when you relax after hunching your shoulders. You know immediately that it’s going to take very little effort on your part to get exactly what you want. Don’t worry, these places purr, we’ve got this.

Grill Americano has definitely got this. It’s also got royal blue upholstered furniture, white-jacketed waiters as charming as they are immaculate, acres of the glossy terrazzo floor, a 14-meter white marble bar that glows under lamplight, and an extensive menu that includes a mollycoddled Florentine-style T-bone that’ll set you back $165.