Italia Bellissima

The Valtellina valley in northern Italy proves an arresting hinterland of rolling hills, imposing mountains, idyllic vineyards and more than the odd church

- Words James Spender Photography Mike Massaro

They say that Wales is home to more sheep than people, the UK has more potholes than miles of road, and at any given time a third of all French workers are on strike. But should you believe them? In my case I'm struggling when my ride guide, Roberto, tells me Valtellina has more churches than houses, even if the horizon of these hills presents a compelling case.

This valley region makes up a good chunk of Italy's northern border with Switzerland, and as a once key passage from Italy to Germany, it has been heavily contested for half a millennium. Subsumed, annexed, ceding, seizing, declaring independence, capitulating... it all happened here, and often as not it all happened in the name of God - specifically the Catholic and the Protestant kind. Thus depending on who was winning in any given century, churches would be built accordingly, as much to stake a claim to the land as to actually gather for worship.

Whether Roberto's assertion is true or not, as we pedal out of Chiuro I have to concede there are a decidedly large number of churches; the more steepled and elaborate the Catholic, the more squat and utilitarian the Protestant, as is the way of these faiths (just consider the Pope's flamboyant outfits versus your average parish vicar).