Heaven in a tent in Chiang Rai

Reconnect with nature and the community at Visama Mae Chan, a glamping site in northern Thailand

- Oh Mei Lin

Chiang Rai in northern Thailand has always been a destination of intrigue for me, not least due to its reputation in the infamous Golden Triangle, notorious as one of the world's major opium cultivation and heroin-producing areas.

Thai cities Bangkok, Phuket and Chiang Mai are destinations popular with Singapore residents. For those who want to venture further, Chiang Rai is an alluring option. The mountainous region, with scenic forest landscapes, is ideal for those in search of a connection with nature.

In May 2024, I spend four days in the Northern Thai region. My companion and I are met by our ebullient driver Pakin Noi Sukuns, who goes by Tony, at Chiang Mai International Airport.

Our four-hour journey to Chiang Rai begins with a stop for khao soi, a beloved Northern Thai curry noodle dish with Burmese roots, at popular local eatery Kao Soi Sa Mer Jai (str.sg/qr4x). Prices cost between 100 and 200 baht (S$4 and S$8).

Fuelled by the hearty meal, we continue along a modern highway, flanked by numerous coffee shops - Arabica coffee is cultivated in the region - and majestic temples.

We pass the Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple) with its stunning blue and gold colours; Wat Rong Khun (White Temple), one of Thailand's most renowned temples featuring intricate white carvings, mirrored glass, and surreal and symbolic artworks; and the imposing Wat Huay Pla Kang, a nine-tier pagoda honouring Guan Yin, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy.

A highlight of this area is the Baan Dam Museum (str.sg/dF4h, admission: 80 baht a person) or Black House, created by the late Thai artist Thawan Duchanee. This collection of more than 25 buildings painted in black houses extraordinary, if macabre, displays of folk art created by local artisans and artefacts, including animal bones, skins, tusks, furs and elaborate wooden carvings that explore life, death and the human condition.