Norway Chess 2025: Watching Carlsen in Magnus country

IT'S 4.57 PM on a slightly cold summer afternoon in downtown Stavanger. The cold can be accentuated because the North Sea is just round the corner. The sun is out but the wind chill can be felt.

- SWAROOP SWAMINATHAN @ Stavanger

The gates for the playing hall at the venue for Norway Chess opened over 30 minutes ago but a fair few of the fans have stayed outside the building. Some journalists, a few photographers—including a couple of influencers who are big on social media—are also among the people braving the cold.

Inside the playing hall, 11 of the 12 players—all six women's players and five of the six in open—have already taken their seats. The guests of honour tasked with making the ceremonial first moves are also inside. Outside the building, a vehicle appears to stop next to the building. It's enough to send the journalists and photographers scurrying towards the vehicle but false alarm.

Seconds later, a slightly harried-looking man makes his way down the other side of the road on foot. Magnus Carlsen. The principal deity is about to enter the sanctum sanctorum.

Kids clutching their pens and scrapbooks politely enquire if the five-time world champion would stop for a few autographs. He apologetically points to his watch before speed-walking his way past the fans, media and broadcasters.