At the table Even better than the Sri Lankan real thing

The word is that Sri Lanka is the new Bali, or at least the Bali that was, before the influencers colonised it.

- DAVID ELLIS RESTAURANT CRITIC

The attractions are obvious: palm trees by the bushel; endless lengths of sand; the chance to lean, studiously carefree, from a moving train. Stumbling off the Northern Line at Colindale just isn't quite the same.

And then there is the food, famous for its commitment to cinnamon and coconut and curry leaves. London may be light on the palms, but we don't do badly for Sri Lankan cooking. Hoppers; Rambutan; Kolamba; at least a third of Tooting. And here, Paradise. It opened six years ago and swiftly became the subject of heart-eyed rhapsodies for its mutton rolls and fish curries. It was the hot table of the moment, but the trouble with moments is that they pass.