UNFORGETTABLE FIRE

There are pitfalls to volcano trekking in Central America, as Robyn Wilson finds, but adventurers still can't resist the pull

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Three days before I'm due to climb Guatemala's Acatenango volcano, a text pings on my phone.

It's from my tour guide: “Tours are currently cancelled, will update with more information as soon as possible.”

Earlier that day, neighbouring volcano Fuego - one of the most active in Central America - had erupted, violently spewing lava, ash and rock, prompting Guatemala authorities to evacuate more than a thousand people from nearby communities.

This explained the grey fog that had descended across Antigua, the colonial-era city I was staying in, just 16km (10 miles) from Fuego's slopes. The clear blue skies that once painted a perfect backdrop to the city's stunning Spanish Baroque architecture had now turned a heavy charcoal.

Before the eruption, my plan had been to hike the 13,000ft up Acatenango - an active but “quiet” volcano that hasn't erupted in more than half a century. I'd been warned the trek would be tough: the first day involved 4-5 hours of steady, steep climbing to reach base camp. The next morning, we were to wake well before sunrise and trek another hour or two to the summit, where panoramic views of the still-smoking Fuego typically steal the show.

Now, that seemed increasingly unlikely. But if nothing else, the sudden cancellation was a stark reminder of how unpredictable volcano trekking really is. While I had opted for Acatenango, many hikers venture closer to Fuego's infamous “knife-ridge”, a narrow trail flanked by 1,600ft drops on either side. The eruption had cast a spotlight on the risks that come with such exhilarating adventures.