Hemamalini Maiya Plated Stories

Maiya has added many landmarks to the business, helping expand the single, stand-alone restaurant to 17 locations

- Shrabonti Bagchi

You can't imagine it ever being quiet or empty, but on a weekday afternoon, the 100-year-old MTR Restaurant near Bengaluru's Lalbagh is especially loud and lively. Outside the steps leading into the restaurant, an ecosystem of small businesses has sprung up over the years—flower sellers, newspaper vendors, a fruit seller or two—all targeting customers streaming in for their evening vada and coffee. "They are part of the MTR family," says Hemamalini Maiya, 52, managing partner, MTR Restaurants, as she leads me inside. I have been to MTR before, of course—you can't call yourself a Bengalurean unless you have stepped in here, bleary-eyed after a morning walk in Lalbagh or exhausted from an appointment at the nearby Regional Passport Office, and wolfed down some tiffin with filter coffee so strong you can wrestle it—but this time, Maiya leads me to parts unseen.

We walk through the small ground floor rooms, all filled with patrons, past a section of the kitchen where huge vats of sambar are boiling away, up a narrow flight of stairs and on to the first floor, where Maiya leads me through a warren of small rooms, all being put to full use during the rush hour, to her office. "You would never have been able to find it on your own," says Maiya, laughing, as she places an order for khara bhath (aka upma) and coffee for us.

One of Maiya's earliest memories is of walking down to the restaurant with her siblings after catching a movie at the nearby Urvashi Theatre, sitting in one of these small, semi-secret rooms behind the kitchen, and having her favourite rava idli. "When I eat rava idli even today, I go back in time. It was my favourite dish, followed by 'Fruit Mixture'," she recalls, referring to an MTR innovation—fruit salad topped with almond milk-flavoured ice cream and toppings like paan-flavoured jelly, pomegranate and grapes.