Beads of brilliance

INTANGIBLE HERITAGE OF BHARAT | After its revival in the 16th century in Khambhat, the 4,000-year-old Harrapan craft of agate bead-making started dominating the export market but those engaged in the risk-laden process of producing the singularly unique items still await safety provisions

- SANJEEV CHOPRA

Agates are semi-precious stones which display a wide spectrum of colours and vibrant images. They are believed to have been formed under earth’s cavities out of volcanic action and extreme climatic conditions. The word is derived from ‘Achates’, a river in Sicily, well known in early times for its agates. Etymologically, it is taken from the Arabic word Akik, which means riverbed. According to ancient beliefs, agates possess medicinal properties and are thought to cure insomnia. People possessing this stone were believed to have gathered strength and courage.

Agate is characterised by its occurrence, hardness, fracture, specific gravity, refractive index and lustre. The composition of agate varies greatly, but silica is always predominant, usually with alumina and oxide of iron. The colours and “scenes” in agate are endless. While agate is usually an inexpensive stone, some varieties or special stones with very unusual scenes or markings can be quite expensive.

Cambay or Khambhat is perhaps the only place in India where the Harappan craft of agate beadmaking is found in the living tradition. Although Khambhat has no stone deposits; the craft has survived mainly through acquiring stones from the Rajpipla hills, about 200 km away from the city.