The art of elemental dining

At Taupe Dining in BGC, culinary alchemy takes center stage as Chef Francis Tolentino blends elemental forces with contemporary Filipino finesse into every inspired course

- FELICIANO RODRIGUEZ III

At Taupe Dining in Bonifacio Global City, Chef Francis Tolentino continues to refine his quiet but focused approach to contemporary Filipino fine dining. The latest iteration of the restaurant's seasonal tasting menu, simply called Elements, finds inspiration in nature's core forces—air, water, fire, earth—and draws them into the plate through discipline and transformation.

There is no flamboyance here, no gratuitous theatrics. The spectacle lies in the details. Now on its third cycle, Elements is offered in two paths: a 10-course tasting menu at P7,800 or an eight-course version at P6,500. Both reflect the same culinary philosophy. The longer experience adds two additional dishes: a dry-aged duck course and a quartet of local-inspired petit fours. For those looking for the full narrative, the 10-course format is where it all comes together.

The journey begins with an amuse-bouche pairing that sets the tone for precision. A sweet potato tart with guyabano espuma delivers tartness and cream in a single bite, while a lemongrass brioche is topped with a warm, custardy butter made from fresh local river prawns.

This is followed by a signature course that has become part of Taupe's identity: Blue crab ice cream served as a sandwich between crisp chicken skin biscuits. The dish is layered with mango gel, Osetra caviar, and cold smoked roe, yielding a rich, oceanic sweetness that is both bold and controlled. It's a dish that wears its ambition lightly.