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A little bit like Harvester and Gaucho had a baby
Evening Standard
|September 13, 2023
EVEN the most relaxed restaurant experiences require some early admin. Even establishments that would rather defenestrate every biodynamic wine bottle in their cellar than utter the words "allow us to explain our concept" need to give uninitiated diners a vague sense of how everything works.
Fazenda
100 Bishopsgate, EC2M 1GT. Meal for two plus drinks about £170. Open Monday to Wednesday 11.30am-10pm, Thursday to Saturday from 11.30am-10.30pm and Sunday from 11.30am-9pm; fazenda.co.uk
And yet, at Fazenda, a new South American grill in Bishopsgate, there is such an abundance of introductory spiel - about the signature, all-you-can-eat barbecue offering that is paraded around the room, about the exhaustive a la carte menu, and about the bottomless "market table" salad area that servers have all clearly been instructed to never, ever refer to as a buffet - that it is hard to not be put in mind of a convoluted safety briefing at a trampoline park.
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