The makhana story gets hotter

As they gain commercial viability, foxnuts will likely become a powerful political currency in the poll-bound state. Aditi Phadnis reports

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Shambhu Prasad left Mithilanchal in 1998. He has worked in Japan and the United States, and now lives in London, where he has founded a telecom company that serves Britain’s National Health Service and other corporate clients.

But his heart is in Madhubani, and in makhana. When he comes to Madhubani, which is several times a year, he rolls up the sleeves of his Jermyn Street shirts, walks up to the shopfloor of his company, Madhubani Makhana, and personally supervises the grading of a commodity that he pledges will one day reach the heights that the California almond has been able to achieve. Last year, Madhubani Makhana sold 350 kg to Walmart. Buyers are lining up. They include Haldiram and Reliance.

It was a little-known food, and matriarchs of a certain age, especially from feudal north Indian families, readily confess they would use it as part of their “prasad” in community pujas to swell the volumes and impress guests (“prasad bhara bhara lagtatha”).In February this year, Prime Minister Narendra Modi told the people of Bihar how partial he was to the lowly makhana. “Makhana has become an important part of breakfast in the cities of the country today. Out of 365 days, I eat makhana for 300 days. It is a superfood.” Nearly 90 per cent of the world’s makhana comes from India. More than 80 per cent of that comes from the Mithilanchal region. Most of it is “mined” by the Mallah community. And it is a hot commodity: Both in markets and in politics.