BREWING TROUBLE

Darjeeling tea faces existential crisis over looming threats from climate change, labour dissatisfaction and unrest over land rights

- BY SALIL BERA AND NILADRY SARKAR/DARJEELING

With the mighty Kanchenjunga standing tall, verdant tea gardens dotting its rolling hills and the rhythmic echoes of Buddhist chants, chapel bells and the chug of the 'toy train,' Darjeeling had something for everyone; it was everyone's cup of tea. But now, it is losing the very essence that made it world famous— the hallowed Darjeeling tea.

The tea leaves have changed colours—from shiny green to blackish green. That is not the only change that has pushed the crown jewel of India's tea industry, rooted in a centuries-old system introduced by the British, to the brink. The picturesque tea gardens with majestic mountain silhouettes in the backdrop are facing multiple challenges—from climate change to political unrest and labour dissatisfaction.

THE HEAT IS ON

From the misty hills of Darjeeling to the lush plantations of Kenya and China, tea growers across the world are grappling with frequent climate extremes. These shifting weather patterns are disrupting harvests and diminishing quality.

This season, erratic weather patterns have cast a shadow over Darjeeling's coveted first flush of tea crops, popularly known as the 'champagne of teas' owing to its delicate muscatel and fruity aroma and amber colour. The magic of Darjeeling's first flush lies in the uniqueness of the terrain where it is grown high-altitude slopes, year-round cool temperatures and plenty of rain. These natural elements create the distinct flavour that makes it a global sensation. Despite forming only 20 per cent of the total tea produced in the Darjeeling hills, first flush contributes 40 per cent to the annual revenue of the industry.