Coconut shy

The much-hyped health benefits of coconut products do not extend to Western diets – but you needn't shun them altogether.

- BY JENNIFER BOWDEN

QUESTION:

Modern recipes increasingly call for coconut cream or coconut milk. These are high in saturated fats, so why are we continually led to believe they are acceptable additions to our diets?

ANSWER:

Coconut milk and cream bring creamy richness and subtle tropical notes to everything from curries and soups to vegan desserts. A Times of India report notes they are “packed with essential vitamins and minerals [including] significant amounts of manganese, copper and magnesium, which are crucial for various bodily functions”. Other sources tout benefits for gut health and heart health.

Sales of coconut oil surged in the early noughties on the back of such hype. But, yes, these products also bring saturated fat - and with that, confusion. Are they healthful whole foods or artery-clogging indulgences? It depends on the context.

Nutritionally, coconut milk and cream are made from grated coconut flesh but differ in fat content. The cream is thicker and contains more fat, typically 20-25g per 100ml, whereas coconut milk is diluted and normally contains 9-15g/100ml. Both are rich in saturated fats, long associated with elevated LDL (“bad”) cholesterol levels and increased risk of cardiovascular disease.