IS WHAT'S OLD NEW AGAIN?

Menus focussed on native ingredients that preserve food memories and foster biodiversity and sustainability will shine in the coming year. Five of the world’s leading Michelin star chefs weigh in on the culinary storm brewing in the cup.

- RUPALI DEAN

The year began on a shocking note as Chef René Redzepi of Noma–it won the first spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards in 2021– announced the closure of one of the most ardently worshipped temples of haute gastronomy. Redzepi’s bold attempts to reimagine a new course for Scandinavian cuisine will, post 2024, only partake in sporadic pop-ups and venture into a permanent food lab, which basically means that it will become the latest trouper in the realm of direct-to-consumer food.

Even as star chefs, admirers and critics jointly communicated a mix of regret, respect and disbelief, feted Indian chef, Prateek Sadhu of Masque fame also left the award-winning restaurant just when it got into the World’s 50 Best category. “My personal plans do include a comeback with a restaurant very soon. But for now, the focus is only on research and development. For the past 6-7 years, I have travelled extensively within India and discovered so many ingredients; I am just building on that research and trying to create something more meaningful”, shares Sadhu. While healthy, sustainable, plant-forward food remains in focus, the axiom now is indigenous. Spice brain storms with five Michelin star chefs who share what they, and the world is going to be up to this year, and which ingredients will outshine the rest.

JOAN ROCA
Founder & Head chef, El Celler de con Roca (3 Michelin stars), Girona, Spain