The Scenic Route

Rachel McConachie takes a peaceful journey through the changing landscapes, weather and history of Lismore, in Loch Linnhe

- Rachel McConachie

IRAN from the door of The Pierhouse hotel onto the passenger ferry from Port Appin to Lismore, rain hammering down, off to cycle an island I had never visited.

Lismore had been hovering across the water all day yesterday, close enough to tempt me, and today I wasn't going to ignore it. I put my faith in the west coast weather's habit of changing every five minutes.

Lismore sits in Loch Linnhe, an Inner Hebridean island around 10 miles long and just a mile wide, making it ideal for a day's exploration by bike. Home to around 170 people, it is known as the "Great Garden" for its fertile land.

I planned to see as much as possible, so arranged bike hire in advance - there's no public transport on the island. Eilidh from Isle of Lismore Bike Hire met me at the ferry, kitted me out with a mountain bike and helmet, then sent me off with no fixed plan beyond exploration. The coastal road was a joyful introduction. Its gentle undulations offered plenty of free-wheeling as the rain eased, clouds lifted and the mainland's mountains emerged in full, dramatic glory.

With no cars and only the occasional walker, I relaxed. The quiet, the closeness to island life and the fact that such peace lay so near the mainland made me certain I would return for a longer stay.

A right turn took me to Port Ramsay, one of the island's prettiest settlements and an easy detour from the main road. After a short climb, the views opened out, and I grabbed handfuls of brambles from the verge before free-wheeling to the village.

White cottages line the shore here and, with the tide out, boats rested on seaweed-strewn ground. The silence was so profound it was almost emotional. I could have stayed all day, but adventure called me back to my bike.