India Rising

From a culture whose glorious traditions have greatly influenced luxury jewellery today, young designers like Renu Oberoi are rewriting the narrative.

-  YANNI TAN

There is probably no greater jewellery culture than India, in which gold and gemstones are deeply woven into the fabric of daily life. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, prominent jewellers from Louis Comfort Tiffany to Jacques Cartier and Frederic Boucheron heavily referenced Indian techniques, styles, and motifs a practice that has lasted until today.

While the world has embraced this aspect of Indian ingenuity through Western fine jewellers, it is only now that a new generation of young talents from the subcontinent is making an impact and reintroducing a fresh Indian perspective.

A recent Singapore showcase, organised by local retailer Melange, revealed what made celebrities such as Hollywood star Priyanka Chopra, Bollywood actress Sonam Kapoor, and Sri Lankan model Jacqueline Fernandez choose the independent, eponymous Renu Oberoi brand.

While the pieces were brightly coloured, intricate, and eye-catching, with some bearing clear Indian aesthetic codes, they were also streamlined, light, supple, and a cinch to wear.

At the event, which presented fashion designer Gaurav Gupta's couture gowns on models adorned with Renu Oberoi's jewels, we sat down with the latter to talk about her label's identity and inspirations.

Tell us more about your journey into jewellery design.

It began after I graduated from the London College of Fashion. Influenced by my mother's passion for collecting, I have always been drawn to jewellery design.

Growing up, I watched her navigate the world of traditional jewellery and engage in the customisation process, which I found myself deeply involved in.