Come, Sail Away

Discover off-the-radar Italian towns, cities off the Adriatic coast, and the ancient wonders of Greece on the recently refurbished Crystal Symphony.

- Words: Mark Lean Photography: Benedetti Laurent and Mark Luscombe-Whyte

THE INDUSTRIAL ITALIAN port of Fusina, with its vast Tetris-like assemblage of rows upon rows of cargo containers, is as nondescript as they come. But this tiny, dozy town is the gateway for cruises to Venice. It's here, after a 30-minute car transfer from Marco Polo Airport, where I meet Crystal Symphony, a 781ft eight-deck moving palace on water.

As on most other cruise ships, the first 'official' task every guest must do is adhere to the safety drill. When the sirens ring, I find myself hanging out on the outer deck by the port with my designated group of passengers as silvery light fades on a fresh November day. No one has thought to bring a jacket and, as the minutes go by, the wind chill increases; men (New Yorkers, by the sound of their accent) start to drape their arms around their wives to keep them warm. This gives me an indication of what to expect in the coming days—couples who have been married for at least 50 years displaying affection on a cruise ship that recently underwent a multi-million-dollar refurbishment.

The luxury touches onboard are noticeable. My suite, composed of a living area with a three-seater sofa, a bedroom, and bathroom kitted out with a washing machine and dryer, can match some of the best five-star hotels on land. Design schemes, courtesy of cruise ship design firm GEM, are all about subtle pastel shades in puce and leaf green, spiced with silver and jade. The result is a charming and coddling oasis in which to nurse one’s 5am jet lag.