A Sanctuary by the Sea

A decade-long bond with Chiva-Som deepens on a return visit, where a gentle gut-cleanse, nourishing cuisine, and refined hospitality reveal wellness as ritual, not regimen.

- Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi

The road from Bangkok to Hua Hin runs mostly flat, bordered by coastal plains and stretches of cultivated land. Coconut palms and tamarind trees line sections of the highway, cutting through rubber plantations and casuarina groves. As I approached its coastline, the air grew salty and humid; the steady breeze a consolation in the tropical heat.

I've been visiting Chiva-Som Hua Hin, a wellness resort located a three-hour drive from Bangkok, for a decade now, although this was my first visit after its revamp. As always, I entered through a pavilion bordered with areca palms and went straight towards the pond, where I fed large shoals of koi—a ritual I've always followed. Chiva-Som’s recent renovation has sharpened its identity of Thai minimalism without diluting its essence. The architecture, once traditional, is now even more pristine and contemporary, with open lines and lighter palettes framing the resort’s gardens and water views. The communal areas, such as the dining room and consultation spaces, are more spacious. I was delighted that the result was not opulence, but low-key refinement. The retreat serves the idea of the pause.