Copenhagen

A joy-sparking guide to the happiest city in the world.

- Andréanne Dion

DESPITE ITS LONG AND DARK winters, Denmark consistently ranks among the world's happiest countries, and its capital, Copenhagen, recently topped the Institute for Quality of Life's Happy City Index. In search of a little happiness of my own before the cold set in, I hopped on a plane with a jam-packed itinerary filled with all of my favourite things.

A typical day on my trip started with a leisurely bike ride to the harbour for a bracing swim in one of city's open-air swimming zones (a beloved local ritual no matter the season), followed by sightseeing, shopping and, of course, eating. The highlight of my visit? Cardamom buns, a Swedish export that's a mainstay in every crowd-drawing bakery in town, of which there are many.

EXPLORE

The all-inclusive Copenhagen Card ($122 for 72 hours) is a must for first-time visitors; it gives access to over 80 attractions, as well as free public transportation. First up: Beat the jetlag at one of the city's many world-class museums—don't miss the Designmuseum Danmark, where you can deep-dive into the history and impact of Danish design on modern culture.

Break for lunch at La Banchina, an intimate snack and wine bar, complete with its own dock and sauna, in trendy Refshaleøen.

I spent the morning swimming, sweating and lounging, before warming up with pumpkin soup and a glass of natural wine from a menu crafted from in-season Danish ingredients. If you'd rather take your thermal circuit indoors, opt for Sofiebadet, a beautifully restored, marble-clad bathhouse from 1909, hidden on a quiet Christianshavn side street.