FUELLING THE FLAMES

Once a year, in a thrilling spectacle, the Devon town of Ottery St Mary is set aglow by flaming tar barrels carried through the streets.

- Pat Kinsella

Every 5 November, villages and towns across Britain light bonfires and set off fireworks to mark Guy Fawkes Night. In the East Devon town of Ottery St Mary, though, the infernos aren't stationary. Here, in a centuries-old tradition, tar-lined barrels are set ablaze and carried around the carnival-crowded streets on the shoulders of local folk.

Participation in this unique tradition is a treasured rite of passage for residents, who take the event extremely seriously; for spectators, it's a thrillingly incandescent spectacle. First-timers typically walk away from the event wide-eyed, with slightly singed eyebrows and hair smelling of smoke, wondering “well, how did that get past the health-and-safety police?” Though not for the fainthearted, this is one of the most exciting and bizarre folk events I've ever experienced.

WHAT'S THE BACKSTORY?

Over the centuries, barrels have been set ablaze for various reasons, including emergency communication during times of attack - for example, when the Spanish Armada was sighted off the English coast.