The wilder west

The islands off the west coast of Ireland are steeped in history and mystery, best explored on foot to experience their natural beauty and isolation

- KITTY CORRIGAN

Solar panels may have replaced thatch on some of the cottages on the Aran Islands, but traditional ways survive. The Irish language is spoken, and the crafts of knitting and weaving continue.

I was visiting with an all-women walking group, ranging in age from 21 to 60s, single or divorced and all new to Ireland; I was intrigued to see my own country through their eyes. Over seven days, we would hike through three counties in the west of Ireland - Clare, Galway and Mayo - and visit three islands.

Our excellent guide and driver, Linda, briefed us on what to expect weatherwise - four seasons in one day - though we were not prepared for the tail end of a hurricane that swept in from the Caribbean midweek. It almost scuppered our trip but there was always a Plan B in Linda's itinerary (along with, crucially, a hamper of fruit and snacks in the minibus).

WESTWARD HO

To break us in gently, after leaving Galway city we set off across part of the Burren, a vast area of limestone pavement, formed in the last ice age and famous for its flora and fauna, including 28 species of butterfly and wildflower meadows.

I spotted knapweed, wild carrot, ox-eye daisy, wild fuchsia, lady’s bedstraw, monbretia, harebell and foxglove ('banshee's thimbles' in Irish), all swaying in the breeze, a colourful contrast to the bare grey rock interspersed with tussocks of grass.