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Food & Wine

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July 2025

THE WORLD'S LARGEST MSG BRAND IS DEBUNKING THE RACIST MYTHS SURROUNDING THE UMAMI-BOOSTING INGREDIENT.

- AMELIA SCHWARTZ

Ajinomoto

IN 1968, the New England Journal of Medicine published a letter to the editor with the headline, "Chinese-Restaurant Syndrome." The letter detailed the numbness and weakness the writer would experience after eating Chinese food. It theorized that MSG (monoso- dium glutamate) was to blame. There was no evidence, then or now, that MSG is harmful, and yet the theory spread, and American perception of MSG has never fully recovered.

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