The sprout revolution

Brussels sprouts have long endured a less-than-stellar reputation but these versatile vegetables are finally receiving the culinary respect they deserve

- Written by Rupert Uloth

BRUSSELS sprouts: smaller than an onion but larger than a broad bean. How is it that this seemingly innocuous vegetable creates such strong emotions? Reviled by victims of historic prep-school over-boiling, worshipped by skilful chefs and celebrated at Christmas, even if sometimes a touch ironically, this innocent vegetable stalwart excites wildly different opinions.

Like many of our 'ancient' traditions, in reality we only have to go back to the Victorians and the late 1800s to identify its rise in popularity. When it comes to the humble sprout, there were good reasons for this.

They are easy to grow and, indeed, thrive during the winter months. This greater appreciation of the sprout coincided with the evolution of Christmas dinner, for which they proved the perfect accompaniment.

There aren't many food staples that borrow the name of a large city, London gin and frankfurters apart, but the Belgian capital was afforded this honour because these diminutive leafy vegetables were originally cultivated in the 13th century in what is now Belgium, particularly in areas near the modern-day capital. The reason they look like mini cabbages is because they are siblings. They are both members of the cruciferous vegetable family; in the 1940s a purple sprout was developed by crossing sprouts and purple cabbage.

Precursors to the early version were first grown in ancient Rome derived from wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and they were first recorded as far afield as Afghanistan and Persia. In the 16th century sprouts became popular in the southern Netherlands, and their cultivation spread throughout cooler parts of northern Europe. The little green fellows took their time to cross the Channel and did not really come to Britain until the late 18th century. However, once here their popularity surged throughout Victoria's reign.