A TIMELESS LEGACY YOILI YAMAMOTO

A man of avant-garde fashion, personal triumphs and unyielding creativity, this legendary Japanese dressmaker refuses to follow the trends. His tailoring is akin to sculpting, and his idea of luxury resembles simplicity. In conversation with RITU BERI, the first Indian to showcase in Paris in 1999, the enigmatic designer discloses his love for all things black and his thoughts on the 'death of the real fashion industry'

A few days after the Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Show in Paris, I meet him at the luxurious Hotel Costes. Sitting in 203, his red boudoir-style suite, wearing his signature black hat and oversized black suit, smoking a cigarette and sipping on black coffee, this enigmatic designer warmly welcomes me.

When I set eyes on this one-of-a-kind icon in the archives of fashion, my first thought is, “He’s an artist.” He, however, dismisses the notion with, “I’m a dressmaker, not an artist, because the so-called ‘artist’ has become cheap. Without time and struggle, you can’t be a rare artist...”

REINVENTING THE RULEBOOK

Unlike his contemporaries, Yamamoto doesn’t speak the PR language. He’s candid and means everything he utters. During our hour-long chat, he exudes the cynicism-free charm of a child and nostalgia about his journey in fashion.

“I never follow rules. I like to break them,” says the Japanese designer, matter-of-factly, leaning forward and whispering with soft, impeccable manners.

A veteran with 50 years behind him in fashion, Yamamoto — now 79 years old — still leads his namesake brand, in addition to making music. Based between Tokyo and Paris, he’s now all set to open new stores in Taiwan, London and New York.

When we seek his thoughts on the transformation the industry has seen over the years, he exclaims with conviction: “Fashion is worsening by the year! I used to be inspired by the likes of Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet. Today, it’s only about commerce.