Cruising the Northern Sporades

Popular with charter yachts in summer, Genevieve Leaper explores these Greek islands at the quieter end of the season

- Genevieve Leaper

Admittedly, it wasn't the most dignified departure. Beduin, our Nicholson 32, was moored stern to the quay in Milina harbour so all we had to do was let go of the stern lines and haul the anchor. But then the remote control for the windlass stopped working and the skipper started shouting. Once out of the harbour we found a nice breeze and the skipper's mood improved with lunch. It was too late to get out of the Gulf, so we anchored in an un-named bay at the end of the Trikeri peninsula, the tip of the Pelion, which curls like a beckoning finger around the Gulf of Volos.

The clouds were turning pink as we left in the morning and the sun was already up over Evia when we rounded the corner and the islands came into view. Despite the name-Sporades means scattered-the Northern Sporades, curving in an arc east from the Pelion, are actually one of the more compact groups of islands in the Aegean. For us just a day's sail from Aleko's home village of Milina, the Sporades are ideal for a short cruise, which was all we wanted in October.

Coming from the south, the archipelago is a short sail from northern Evia.

Beating up towards Skiathos, Aleko caught a swordfish-so that was dinner sorted. Coming into calmer waters in the lee of the island we passed Koukounaries, often described as 'the most beautiful beach in the Aegean. From the sea the most conspicuous feature is a huge hotel, but out of season it is a lovely beach overhung by pine trees with a lagoon behind.

Wind stops sailing