AUVERGNE ready

Peter Baber solves the 'riddle of the middle' as he journeys through the heart of France

- Peter Baber

Ah, la belle France, who could resist its temptations? The Normandy beaches, the charming little Breton fishing ports, and those dreamy posh places in the south.

But what about the middle? As you clock up those autoroute miles, are you never tempted to turn off at one of the brown signs you pass, advertising things you can see at the next exit? I was, last summer. I had always intended to visit the Auvergne region, famous for its volcanic scenery, on the way down further south for work.

Duration

Three nights (part of a longer tour)

When

Summer 2022

Why?

Taking a detour to discover some of the hidden gems in the Auvergne

But when, having just reached the area's northern perimeter, I saw just such a sign for somewhere called Montluçon, I couldn't resist making a quick detour. I was promised a historic medieval centre, just like Carcassonne, only apparently with far fewer tourists.

Medieval Montluçon

First impressions were good. I had just stopped in a tree-lined street, trying to work out where to park my 7.37m-long Bailey Autograph, when a local man suddenly zoomed to a halt on his moped and directed me to a spot he said would be a much nicer place to pause.

He wasn't wrong: Parc St Jean, with its neat lawns and Japanese-style bridge, would be the perfect place to stop for a picnic. From there, it is only a 15-minute walk to the town centre.