A secret in the Eastern Cape Karoo

What has ten passes and one neck? The Groot River Mountains! Come take a drive through the lesser-known Eastern Cape Karoo.

- Cyril Klopper

The Karoo town of Willowmore was founded in 1862. The name is a combination of farmer William Moore's name and that of the farm he owned at the time, The Willows. Look around as you drive into town - you might spot the “Willow Limo” in Knysna Street. This flower-adorned donkey cart is pulled by Sweetness and Suzy, with Jim Makwena holding the reins. Jim says he also has two other donkey mares, Sweetland and Patrys, but they were enjoying a day off at the nearby Finchley Farm guesthouse. Rides cost R10 per person (the cart seats six), last about 15 minutes, and Jim says he and his Willow Limo only come to town if the weather is good.

Leave Willowmore and follow the N9 north. On the town's outskirts, turn right onto the R329, the Steytlerville road. This concrete road is wide enough for only one vehicle. When you see an oncoming car, both of you move over so that your left wheels ride on the gravel shoulder and your right wheels stay on the concrete slab to allow each other to pass.

Along this route, you'll notice several signs warning you about kudu. Piet Viljoen, who runs a towing service and workshop in Willowmore (more about Piet later), says he's hit 14 kudu in the 18 years he's lived here. It's best not to use these roads after dark.