TIRED AFTER HIS STRENUOUS journey along the south coast of Bali, Dang Hyang Nirartha spotted a rock a little away from the shore. He lay down to rest. Lulled by the breeze and the lapping of the waves, he fell asleep. In his dream, Nirartha, the revered 16th-century Shaivite priest, saw a temple on the rock. The local fishermen who had turned up in the morning with refreshments dutifully followed instructions and translated his epiphany into reality.
We walk from the car park to the cliff facing Pura Tanah Lot. The top of the pelinggih meru, a pagoda-like tiered structure emblematic of Balinese Hindu temples, is visible above the foliage on the rock. It is high tide, and the temple seems to be floating on the water.
This temple is one of the seven temples built along the island's southeast coast, forming a protective chain against malevolent forces. A mythical sea snake formed from Nirartha's sash is said to protect the temple. Dewa Baruna, or Varun, the God of the seas, is the temple's presiding deity.
As we shift our gaze to our right, Pura Batu Bolong comes into view. Like its more famed counterpart, this temple, too, is located in the sea on a rocky outcrop. The rock's allure is magnified by a natural archway carved over centuries by waves and the wind.
Balinese Hindu temples allow entry only to Balinese worshippers who are correctly attired, and these temples are no exception.
Walking back from the temples, I spot a box prominently displayed on the pathway. It is labelled "Donation" with "Dana Punia" below it. Sounds familiar?
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