Island Hopping In The Seychelles

What is sailing in paradise really like? Theo Stocker toughed out a week in the Seychelles to find out.

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White sand beaches, romantic hideaways and erotic coconuts make the Seychelles a haven for honeymooners, but what is it like for sailing? I knew almost nothing about this little archipelago in the middle of the Indian Ocean, 600 miles north-east of Madagascar; but with consistent wind and a tropical climate all year round, it sounded ideal for cruising. With a week’s charter booked up, I couldn’t wait to find out what sailing in paradise is really like.

A few short months and a long flight later, my wife Georgie and I were coming in to land on Mahé, the Seychelles’ main island, excitedly gawping out of the window at the dense forests, turquoise waters and rain-smoothed granite crags.

After a short taxi-ride to Sunsail’s base at Eden Island Marina and a thorough briefing, a brand new Sunsail 404 catamaran was handed over to us. We stepped aboard and slid open the cockpit ‘patio’ door. A wave of cool air invited us into a world of air-conditioned luxury, vast double cabins, 360° views from the saloon and cold drinks. This wasn’t the kind of sailing we were used to, but who cares– this was brilliant! Having quickly stocked up with food at the (eye-wateringly expensive) supermarket in the marina, we were ready for the off.

Just one problem: the first daunting moments of my catamaran career would involve getting a large, square boat out of a tight marina berth with the potential to end badly on the sharp bows immediately downwind of us. Georgie urged caution, and Sunsail base manager Sylvain stayed on board for the manoeuvre, talking us through using the two engines to power out of the berth. Safely out, we were on our way to Port Launay, on Mahé’s northwest coast, for our first overnight stop.