Pilsner for the People

Two years ago in this magazine I called for the resurrection of lager beer.

- Andy Crouch

It wasn’t particularly noteworthy as it was a plea I’d issued before and one I expected would continue to go unheeded. In a world dominated by juicy, hazy IPAs, I dreamed aloud about a new wave of subtler, nuanced beers. I openly hoped for a brewing industry focused on something other than the same-y hop flavors and aromas that continue to cast their shadow over American beer.

Dreams do come true. After more than a decade of preaching the beauties of lager, recent sales data suggests that the much-neglected family of beers is finally gaining some traction among craft consumers. Sadly, it’s not with Maibocks or Dunkels as I had wished, but with the more approachable Pilsner style. That’s understandable. As a very general proposition, Pilsner remains relatable to almost any drinker. It also benefits from a familiar name, one not nearly as foreign in nomenclature as Schwarzbier.