The Wall of Sharks

Joshua Shankle explores French Polynesia’s ‘dangerous archipelago’ above and below the surface

- By Joshua Shankle

We sailed to the atoll of Fakarava for one reason: diving! This distant enclave is a sleepy little island that has Polynesian traditions as deep as the sea. Whether you’re a novice to snorkelling or a waterlogged divemaster, Fakarava’s ancient volcano caldera offers some of the most amazing undersea experiences anywhere in the world. The vast biome and unique ecosystem here has earned this atoll recognition as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, hopefully protecting and preserving this reef for decades to come.

My wife, Rachel, and I sailed our 37-year-old Tayana 42 Agápe over 15,000 miles down central America, from southern California to Panama, across the Pacific Ocean to the Galapagos and Gambier, and finally out into the famed ‘dangerous archipelago’.

The Tuamotus were bestowed this name long ago by a heartier breed of explorers because of the low-lying islands, strong currents, and unpredictable passes. Navigating by sextant and dead reckoning alone, sailors would often decide to completely avoid these 78 atolls and their fringing reefs. Only in recent decades, with modern charts and GPS, has it become safer to traverse this archipelago. The Tuamotus, once tall volcanic islands jutted from the endless pacific blue, are now just lowlying rings of coral, only a few metres above sea level. Their often jagged coral shorelines ensure any sandy beaches are highly prized.