The Southern Wild Coast

Nick yell tours

- Nick Yell

Since my first ‘adventure tour’ from San Lameer to Port St Johns on my Honda XL500S in 1981, the Wild Coast and the old Transkei has held a fascination for me. In those days we rode along the waterline on deserted beaches, bought strings of crayfish for next to nothing and partook of the local beer and other customs with friendly locals. Times and mores have changed, but the beauty and good adventure riding tracks still abound, you just need to be more mindful of security these days.

When I was planning this trip and consulting those in the know, as well as friends who’d recently travelled the N2 from Durban, the consensus was we should keep well south of Umtata, and also not ride after dark. Unfortunately for Jaco, this meant him having to miss out on the Hole-in-the-Wall and ‘shoowah’ Coffee Bay experience; but there was so much else for us to see and experience from Mazeppa Bay south, he wasn’t too fazed. And, as those of you who have ridden in the Transkei will know, with few coast-hugging roads, visiting coastal destinations is a time-consuming in-and-out affair, so it’s best to explore less of the region more thoroughly.

Well-fed and rested, Jaco, Dirk and myself head out from Pienaarsbaken’s farmhouse and guest unit complex early on a frigid Monday morning. The Karoo cold makes me rue the fact that my mighty V-Strom loaner doesn’t have heated grips — an add-on which costs R2,400 — but with Jaco soon leading us down a rutted and rumpled ‘twee-spoor’, thoughts of comfort are quickly eclipsed by the more pressing business of keeping my seat.