Scent of THE SEA

The Suffolk coastal town of Aldeburgh is a treat for lovers of food, music and art

- LUCY THACKRAY, CHRIS MORLEY

Sitting pretty on the East Suffolk coast, where the River Alde forms a shallow lake on its journey to the sea, Aldeburgh was once an important Tudor port. As a centre for ship-building, it crafted many famous vessels, including Sir Francis Drake's Armada-fighting galleon Greyhound and the globe-trotting Golden Hind. Yet when the port silted up and storms destroyed much of the old town, it fell into decline – until the Victorians' enthusiasm for fresh air and sea-bathing made it a fashionable resort.

Coastal trail

Today, the town buzzes with visitors strolling on the prom that separates the steep, shingly beach from a row of soft-hued Victorian villas. Admire the coast – an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – on a flat, 6.5km circular walk from the town to Thorpeness (nationaltrail.co.uk). Wander past rustic fisherman's huts selling the catch of the day – dressed crab, sea-fresh oysters, freshly smoked mackerel and tubs of cockles – then admire landmarks such as the 19th-century, clover-shaped Martello tower, the UK's largest, now run as a holiday let by The Landmark Trust.

The biggest attraction, however, is Maggi Hambling's striking but controversial