Weaving a golden spell to revive Banaras silk

Chandra Jain's recent 'River Weaves' exhibition represents the culmination of over 25 years of dedicated work preserving India's traditional textile heritage.

- SANDHYA MENDONCA

An array of beautiful young women and men arrived on the stage, their garments of rich brocade gleaming under the spotlight. All eyes, however, were on Chandra Jain, whose life is immersed in the crafts and arts of India. She mesmerized the audience with effortless ease as she explained what made each garment special – the material, the design, the weave, and the season in which each is to be worn.

To call Chandra a cultural diva would be a disservice – her elegance lies in subtleness. The handwoven sari, the braided jasmine, the intricate jewellery, the large bindi and gentle cadence envelop a determined spirit and incisive mind. She fronts two organizations in Bengaluru, 'Kadambari', a non-profit that promotes crafts, performing and fine arts, and 'Kimkhab', which revives vintage Banarasi weaves.

Her latest foray is driven by what she describes as a "self-imposed responsibility" to transmit the country's philosophical and aesthetic legacy to future generations. The River Weaves exhibition at the Bangalore International Centre emerged from Chandra's deep conviction that "beautiful thoughts and philosophy" needed to reach the next generation. Curated by Chiara Nath and Siddhartha Das, the project's scope was remarkable, involving extensive documentation and authentic location shooting in Banaras and Delhi.

The exhibition also featured a pop-up store where commissioned pieces were available for those who wished to own these textile masterpieces after understanding their significance as heirlooms and pieces of art.

Born in Allahabad and raised across various parts of northern India, including the culturally rich city of Lucknow, Chandra's aesthetic sensibilities were shaped early. This foundation would later prove crucial in her ability to recognize and value traditional Indian textiles when others had seemingly abandoned them.