Who faked my cheese? Indians hit by paneer that's merely veneer

Raids at dairies across the country yield fake and potentially harmful versions of product

- Debarshi Dasgupta

NEW DELHI - For many Indians, especially vegetarians, paneer is an indispensable part of their meal. It is a household and restaurant staple eaten in myriad ways — whether scrambled with diced onions and tomatoes or cooked with peas in a spiced gravy.

It is also a favourite quick fix for mothers who need healthy yet tasty options for their children's nutrition.

But in recent weeks, Indians have been shocked by reports about multiple raids at dairies across the country that have yielded fake and, worse, even potentially harmful versions of their much-loved food product.

Fabric whitener, palm oil and detergent were among the ingredients found in fake paneer during some of these raids, according to media reports.

For many Indians, these latest incidents have lent credence to their long-held apprehensions about the quality of paneer available in the market.

Ms Pavan Shinde, a human resources professional based in Noida, a city adjacent to Delhi, often packs a paneer sandwich for her eight-year-old son's school snack.

But for more than five years, the 41-year-old has been careful to buy only packaged paneer from top brands, steering clear of loose cottage cheese produced by local small-scale dairies that many prefer as it is believed to be fresher.

"There are times when you think paneer from these local sources smells or tastes a bit strange, but it also leads to self doubt because so many people buy and consume it. So, one asks, am I just overreacting?" said Ms Shinde.

It turns out she may not have been overreacting at all, given the recent haul of fake paneer by the authorities.

In a post on X dated May 26, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI), the country's top food regulator, said it had recently busted a fake paneer racket in Uttar Pradesh's Gorakhpur, destroying 2,500 kilograms of adulterated paneer.