Bengal's oldest Durga Pujastill honours a Mughal queen's command

Inthe bustlingtown of Barasat, 25 kilometers north of Kolkata, history breathes through an ancient ritual. Tucked away in Dakshinpara, the Durga Puja at "Shiber Kotha" has been performed for more than four centuries, making it arguably India’s oldest surviving community celebration of the goddess.

- RAJIB CHAKRABORTY

The puja began 1607, now inits 419th year, the puja owesits existence to anunlikely patron: the Mughal empress Jodhabai. Legend ties the festival tothe turbulent politics of the 16th century, when MughalEmperor Akbar sought to consolidate his hold over Bengal's fiercely independent rulers. While he subdued 11 of the region’s 12 bhuiyans (chieftains), he failed to overpower King Pratapaditya ofJessore. The king's formidable general, Shankar Chattopadhyay, ledthe defense. In time, Akbar's successors captured both men and transported them, along with the idol of the goddess Jeshoreshwari Kali, to Delhi. Pratapaditya is believed to have died in captivity. By then, Akbar himself was gone, and his son Jahangir ascended the throne. The new emperor sentenced Shankar tolifeimprisonment. Despondent yet devoted, the general fasted in protest, sustaining himself