Kimono: An evolving icon of fashion

The kimono is one of the most recognizable forms of national dress, wielding its influence in fashion, art and media.

- RICKY TOLEDO & CHITO VIJANDRE

At the Tokyo National Museum, "The Modern Kimono," featuring the most exquisite pieces from as far back as the Edo Period (17th-19th c.), was easily one of the more popular exhibits.

The presence of the kimono in these august halls cannot stress its importance enough in Japan's history and cultural life. Ever since he studied in Japan, Bench founder Ben Chan has always admired the kimono's timelessness and how it was revered internationally, inspiring the creation of the highly successful Ternocon which instills pride in our own national dress and makes it relevant for today's generation. To introduce the terno to the world, he even brought Ternocon pieces for a runway show at Tokyo Fashion Week.

Just like the terno, the kimono has never stopped evolving through centuries, starting with the Heian period (794-1185). Kimono-like garments were already worn as early as the Kofun period (300-538), introduced by Chinese envoys to the Tang Dynasty court; but when they stopped sending envoys to China, a cultural vacuum occurred, resulting in the flowering of kokufū-bunka or a national culture independent from Chinese fashions.

The halt in importation transformed the kimono with the straight-line method that allowed it to adjust to any body shape and paved the way for luxurious layering that reflected social status. Layering was eventually restricted, however, leading to the kosode — previously considered underwear — being used as outerwear by the Muramachi period (1336-1573). It was also held closed by an obi belt.