Eyes on the Tomahawk & Other Tales at Smith & Wollensky

What does iconic taste like? Turns out it's juicy, with crispy skin and buttery meat, and it hardly needs mustard or salt. You plunge your fork as is and understand why Miranda Priestly in the movie every lifestyle columnist watched consumes it for lunch. (Some of us encountered it in High Fidelity or American Psycho.)

- IGAN D'BAYAN

Now, this legendary Manhattan steakhouse, founded in 1977, has branched out from its original corner on 49th St. and Third Ave. in NYC to key cities such as Las Vegas, Chicago, London, Taipei and, more recently, on 26th St. and 9th Ave. in Bonifacio Global City (BGC). It's here. We're here. We hear sizzling. Our forks are glinting.

International steakhouses abound in Metro Manila, impressive ones at that especially in BGC, so what sets Smith & Wollensky apart?

"The other steakhouses here are good — I like competition — but they're small," answers John Hardyment with candor and confidence. He is the chairman of Granville Restaurants Philippines Inc., who has been bringing restaurant brands across Asia for decades. He says, "You don't get the ambiance or atmosphere a larger steakhouse can give."

Smith & Wollensky BGC occupies two sprawling spaces: the dining area itself for the Tomahawks and such, as well as a stacked bar that features Grammy-nominated pianist Bobby West holding court with his jazz cohorts. (Mr. West is expressive on the keys and conversant when it comes to jazz legends such as Miles Davis and Herbie Hancock. Ask him about "Inventions and Dimensions" and Herbie's stint at Blue Note.)

"Our pianist is probably the best in Asia," Hardyment tells me — then pauses thoughtfully. "No one of his caliber is playing in any steakhouse in the Philippines."