BINONDO: THE BUSTLING HOMETOWN OF MY ANCESTORS

Fascinated by the movement of my Ongpin ancestors around the many addresses they held in Binondo, the center of Manila's Chinatown, I was curious to delve deeper into the streets that played a role in the fortunes of the Roman Ongpin family and their general merchandise shop "El 82" (pronounced "el ochenta y dos") that specialized in art supplies, from the late 19th century until the decline of the business after World War II.

- LISA ONGPIN PERIQUET

The Philippines' Chinatown is reputed to be the world's oldest, tracing its origins to the late 16th century. I enlisted the help of Chinatown guide par excellence, Ivan Man Dy, who happens to be a Binondo native, having spent his early years in the arrabal (outlying district) of San Nicolas, to help me explorethe streets and addresses relevant to my family's history.

The streets of Binondo had storied names. For example, Calle Rosario (now Quintin Paredes), leads from Jones Bridge directly to the Binondo Church which was established by the Dominicans and dedicated to Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Streets such as Anloague (now Juan Luna) and Sacristia (now Ongpin) were mentioned in Rizal's novel, Noli Me Tangere. Several were named after the professions of their residents. The aforementioned Anloague means "carpenter" and was where the Chinese artisans were located. Jaboneros indicated soapmakers, and Fundidor, foundry workers. Quite a few bear the names of Spanish governors, including Dasmariñas, Claveria, and Urbiztondo, among others. Ivan informed me that there are also informal, traditional Chinese names for the streets, and he is compiling a list.

BINONDO CHURCH