SHARP RELIEF

LAUREN TAYLOR GOES FROM SHARP ISLAND'S RURAL IDYLL TO BUSTLING STREETS AS SHE EXPLORES THE CONTRASTS OF HONG KONG

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STEPPING into the crystal-clear sea from a small sandy beach, I dive into the water. It’s a refreshing temperature in autumn but having hiked from one side of Sharp Island to the other, it’s a welcome relief.

I have the water to myself on Kiu Tsui beach - it’s a lesser-known side of bustling Hong Kong, famous for its skyscraper skyline and being one of the most densely populated places in the world.

Sharp Island is one of the 260 islands in Hong Kong, a special administrative region of China, many of which are protected as part of a UNESCO Geopark, and the walk follows the highest ridge, providing views in every direction for 2km.

September to November is a dry season and not as hot as the summer, making it ideal for hiking (although it doesn’t drop lower than 15°C year-round).

"This is the ‘back garden’ of Hong Kong," says my guide Sidney Luk, a local. “In the summer it’s very busy,” and it’s no surprise really, being only a 45-minute drive from central Hong Kong to Sai Kung, the gateway to the islands, where boats sail from and a base for the small number of ‘green buses or taxis’ which help to regulate the transport and pollution in the park.

Sharp Island is a short, scenic boat ride away but, several islands are more remote. “You can charter a fisherman's boat to any of them,” Sidney informs me, but adds that places to sleep overnight here are few and far between - a couple of guesthouses and one youth hostel.

The lack of development of this vast area is part of the appeal for hikers.

You don’t necessarily need to travel out to Hong Kong's smaller islands for scenic hikes. In what's considered the city centre, the famous Victoria Harbour (best enjoyed aboard a traditional junk boat) splits the Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island, while Lan-tau Island to the west (connected by a driveable bridge) and the New Territories to the north (bordering China), make up the other two of four main regions.