Luxury Houses Need to Grasp India's Domestic Sensibilities

Prada learnt a lesson about India from its Kolhapuris faux pas

- KARISHMA VASWANI

Retailing for as little as $10, India's beloved Kolhapuri sandals are a staple in wardrobes across the sub-continent. So, when global luxury brand Prada debuted a new type of footwear at Milan Fashion Week that bore a stark resemblance to them, it didn't take long for fury to build online.

The saga underscores how much power the South Asian giant's digital tribe holds, where online outrage regularly influences public debate—especially when citizens perceive their heritage as under attack. International firms eyeing one of the world's fastest-growing markets should weigh the risks of such cultural missteps.

The Italian fashion house's troubles began when it introduced its menswear collection in June. The sandals, described as "leather footwear," displayed an open-toe braided pattern that was strikingly similar to Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. (Your columnist has several pairs of Kolhapuris in her wardrobe.) Historically, the sandals were produced for specific communities. For farmers who worked in the fields, they were robust and able to withstand wear-and-tear; for the courtier class and nobles, they were more delicate and ostentatious. In 2019, the footwear was awarded Geographical Indication status, viewed as a mark of authenticity. Other Indian items to have received this tag include Darjeeling tea and Alphonso mangoes.