THE SCENT OF A COCKTAIL

Indian bars have entered a fragrant new era of cocktails that borrow inspiration from the world of perfumes

- Suman Mahfuz Quazi

Until 1882, when Harry Johnson's Bartender's Manual published a recipe with egg white, the all-pervasive Whisky Sour was largely a simple combination of whisky, lemon juice, sugar and ice. Then came Scotch (Scotch sour), bar spoonfuls of red wine (New York sour), maraschino cherries and wheels of orange and lime, creating new iterations of the classic cocktail.

Sunil Muthupandi, head bartender at the Thai-Japanese restaurant Seefah, Mumbai, says the last two garnishes were likely added to tackle the pungent smell from eggs, indicating the importance of fragrances in craft cocktails.

Today, there is a greater understanding of the role of fragrance in cocktails as the world moves toward sensorial dining. Though the worlds of perfumes and alcohol mixology have always come together to strike the delicate balance between ingredients, notes and flavours, it is clear Indian mixologists are on the scent of a redolent new trend, driven by innovation and practicality.

In July, at the launch of a new cocktail menu, the nutty and citrusy aroma of a coriander and cinnamon perfume embraced my senses at KMC in Mumbai's Fort area. Head bartender Jishnu Dhar had engineered a sampling station of edible sprays from the Ayurvedic plant,jatamansi, and rose, vetiver and cardamom, to mace, and chocolate and orange. There were 10 combinations of notes; each came with a corresponding tipple. Fragrance blotters allow you to sample the entire menu through perfume sprays before you pick a drink, offering a peek into the notes and flavours in store.