SORA CRAFT KITCHEN

OKAY INAK'S cooking career has included fine-dining temples on both coasts — Eleven Madison Park and Per Se in Manhattan, Mélisse in Santa Monica — but his first solo restaurant resides at the edge of downtown's Fashion District on a fairly desolate, well-lighted block with plenty of parking.

- 

Step inside the tiny dining room and you'll feel Turkish ground beneath your feet. Among intricately dressed salads and elegant kebabs, look for two dishes that define Inak's worldview. The first is kitel, a large oval dumpling filled with spiced beef and set over thickened yogurt with drizzles of dill-scented herb