Marble-carved middle finger to restraint is a fantasy land of operatic escapism

The men’s loos in an oddly perfect jab at male bathroom etiquette are intricately modelled on Hades

- Jimi Famurewa

THE first thing to say about Bacchanalia, the Caring Group’s all-new, marble-carved middle finger to restraint and propriety, is that it is not the tacky, high-profile calamity that many detractors might be anticipating. There will, I’m afraid, be no feast here for schadenfreude fans. If your chief interest in this place — with its 2,000-year-old pieces of art, quintet of bespoke, neo-classical Damien Hirst sculptures and tittering pre-launch job ads for in-house grape-feeders — is the promise of gawping at an extravagant binfire then, well, you are mostly out of luck.