SHIFTING FORTUNES

Rising rents threaten the vibrant street food scene of the once-booming Banthat Thong Road

- STORY AND PHOTOS: THANA BOONLERT

As night fell, neon signs gradually lit up Instagrammable restaurants and cafes.

Despite pouring rain, tourists were taking photos of a dessert shop's logo of a boy holding a bun at an iconic intersection. Some eateries were teeming with customers, with a long queue of them spilling onto the sidewalk. Some, less popular, saw staff sitting idle. Others put up advertisement for lease.

Banthat Thong Road has undergone chameleonic changes in a couple of years. Starting from Charoenphol Intersection to Rama IV Road, its 1.5km stretch has grown from a quiet neighbourhood of run-down shophouses to Bangkok’s landmark food street. It has been dubbed the “Second Yaowarat” by food bloggers. It was also named the world’s 14th coolest street in 2024 by Time Out.

However, since earlier this year, the departure of restaurateurs from the area has made headlines. A viral post by a famous eatery leasing its business in February sparked a debate about its operating cost. After 30 years of serving chicken rice, Kanokwan Sri-kamonsirisak, better known as Jay Bo, closed her shop in April because she struggled to afford the rent. After eight years, Bualoy Parinya also downsized its business by sharing its space with Steak Ahma to keep up with the rising cost.

Last month, Sittichan Vuttipornkul, adviser to an association of local restaurateurs, said there are around 300-400 operators that line the street. At its peak, there were 20,000-30,000 visitors per day, generating at least 7 million baht. However, the sluggish economy has now caused overall revenue to drop by half. Restaurateurs have also faced criticism for overpriced and disappointing food.

"If there is no support, over 40% of restaurants will close down in six months," he said.