What Happens When You Lose Your Country?

In 1893, a U.S.-backed coup destroyed Hawai'i's sovereign government. Some Hawaiians want their nation back.

- ADRIENNE LAFRANCE

At the edge of a forest on the island of O'ahu, through two massive metal gates-if you can convince someone to let you in-you will find yourself inside the compound of the self-appointed president of the Nation of Hawai'i.

Dennis Pu'uhonua Kanahele came to possess this particular 45-acre plot only after a prolonged and extremely controversial occupation, which he led, and which put him in prison for a time, more than three decades ago. Since then, he has built a modest commune on this land, in the shadow of an ancient volcano, with a clutter of bungalows and brightly painted trailers. He's in his 70s now, and carries himself like an elder statesman. I went to see him because I had, for the better part of 20 years, been trying to find the answer to a question that I knew preoccupied both of us: What should America do about Hawai'i? More than a century after the United States helped orchestrate the coup that conquered the nation of Hawai'i, and more than 65 years since it became a state, people here have wildly different ideas about what America owes the Hawaiian people. Many are fine with the status quo, and happy to call themselves American.

Some people even explicitly side with the insurrectionists. Others agree that the U.S. overthrow was an unqualified historic wrong, but their views diverge from that point. There are those who argue that the federal I government should formally recognize Hawaiians with a government-togovernment relationship, similar to how the United States liaises with American Indian tribes; those who prefer to seize back government from within; and those who argue that the Kingdom of Hawai'i never legally ceased to exist.

Then there is Kanahele, who has wrested land from the state-at least for the duration of his 55-year lease-and believes other Hawaiians should follow his example.